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Optical and transdermal propertiea of the barrier layer of skin epidermis

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A study of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum for various areas of the wrist skin was carried out using Fourier IR spectroscopy, which showed a significant difference in the optical properties depending on the dryness of the skin and the thickness of the stratum corneum. Four participants of different age took part in the experiment. Analyzing the protective function of the epidermis lipid layer was carried out on the skin subjected to various treatment methods: water, soap, Fairy detergent, and 96% ethanol. It is noted that the nature of the change in the spectrum of the barrier layer, represented by bands 1172 and 1150 cm-1, and reflecting fluctuations in the C-O groups of two alternating blocks of fatty acids – short- and longchain ones, shows a difference in its response to the chemical nature of the influencing substances. Using the example of hand skin treatment with a moisturizing cream lotion, the manifestation of the transdermal function of the lipid barrier layer and the kinetics of changes in its optical properties during the absorption of cosmetic products is shown. The well-recorded frequency of the seasonal cycle of lipid renewal for the barrier layer as well as the influence of the age factor and diet were noted.

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